Howard s



2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

{No Model.)

' H. S. KENNEDY.

COLLAR.

Patented Jan. V14, 1896.

Ez w fzzar:

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No'Model.)

H.S .KENNBDY. COLLAR.

No. 552,962. Patented Jan. 14, 1896.

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LQJ W UNITED STATES PATENT EEieE.

llOsVAiifl) S. KENNEDY, OF TROY, NET YORK, ASSIGNOR TO ChUE'lT, COON d OO., OF SAME PLACE.

COLLAR.

SPECIFICATION forming' part of Letters Patent No. 552,962, dated January 14, 1896.

Application tiled June 24, 1895- Serial No. 553,790. (No model.)

To all wwm may concern:

Be it known that I, HOWARD S. KENNEDY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Troy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New 5 York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

The invention relates to improvements in collars; and it consists of the novel construc- 1 o tion and combination of parts hereinafter described and subsequently claimed.

Reference may be had to the accompanying drawings and the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several :figures therein.

Figure l of the drawings is a view in perspective of my improved collar folded and shaped asin use. Fig. i. is an outside plan view of the same laid out fiat with the middle part broken away. Fig. isa vertical crosssection taken at the broken line 3 in Fig. 2. Fig. i is a plan view of two of the collar-plies superposed one upon the other, the points of one ply being eut off at each end and a folded pointsection substituted at one end exhibiting different steps in the art ofmanufaeture. Fig. 5 is a vertical cross-section taken at the broken line 5 in Fig. i. G is a plan view of one of the folded point-sections detached. Fig. 7 is a similar view of a pointsection unfolded and laid out iiat. Fig. S is a section taken at the broken line 8 S in Fig. i. Fig. 9 is a plan view of the collar-plies stitched together along the edge of three sides ready for turning through the unstitched side. Fig. l0 is a vertical cross-section taken at the broken line l() l0 in Fig. 9.

The figures in cross-section are exaggerated in scale for convenience of illustration.

My invention relates to that class of standing appa1'eleollars in which the points ortabs at the ends of the top portion are bent down, as shown in Fig. l.

The objects of my invention are to facilitate the operation of bending the points of a laundered collar, and to promote the dura bility of the collar.

The invention consists of the novel manufacture hereinafter described and subscquently claimed.

My improved collar is shown complete in Figs. l, 2, and 3, in which A and A are the outer plies, as distinguished from the inner plies B, B, and B2.

A2 and A3 are tabs or points bent down or folded along the diagonal lines At.

To enable those skilled in the art to understand the manufacture of my improved collar, I have illustrated the diferent steps as follows: An inner ply B, fragmentary in that it has not the tab-points, is superposed upon the continuous outer ply A, as shown in Fig. et. The edges of the two plies coincide, except at the tab portion. Inner fragmentary end plies B' and B2 are also superposed upon the tab portion of the outer ply, as shown. The plies are then stitched together by lines of stitching C along the diagonal edges of the fragmentary middle ply and lines of stitching O along the diagonal edges of the fragmentary end plies, leaving a folding space Bt of one ply only between the neighboring diagonal edges of t-he fragmentary plies. The plies thus secured together are then turned bottoniside up and two or more plies, as A and B3, of the same size and shape as the continuous outer ply A superposed upon the latter and secured thereto by an edge line of stitching C5011 three sides, as shown in Figs.` 9 and lO. rlhe plies thus secured together are then turned out through the open side, the edges A5 turned in and a line of stitching Ct inserted along the edge of the turned plies, 'as seen in Figs. 2 and 3, after which buttonholes D are inserted and the collar completed.

rlhe outer plies of the finished collar are termed continuous,"J since they are made similar in shape t-o the completed collar, and to distinguish them from the fragmentary inner plies, which are similar in shape to a part only of the completed collar.

Then standn g tab-collars have been made with all the plies continuous, there was no guide for folding down the tabs of a laundered collar, and one tab would frequently be folded larger than the other on the saine collar, and the outer-surface ply on the face of the fold would soon break and be destroyed 5 IOO and when similar collars have been made with the tab portion cut off from one or more of the inner plies the tab of the completed collar was too thin and pliable and failed to satisfy the user. rlhe same difficulty is experienced when a separate inserted tab portion is secured to a tabless body part of a collar top by a diagonal seam. If the inserted tab is of sufficient wei ght and thickness, the uniting seam becomes too heavy and is ungainly.

By means of my improved manufact ure I am able to provide a collar having a four-ply body in the top part, a three-ply portion along the diagonal fold, and a five-ply tab, thereby insuring a guide for folding the tabs on both ends of the collar on the proper diagonal lines to insure uniformity in the size of the folded tabs on the same collar, to prevent the breaking of the plies at the fold, and insure a stiff and shapely tab which will retain its proper form and position while in use. Then this class of collars is laundered, they are ironed out dat, as seen in Fig. 2, and the tabs afterward bent down by hand.

In Figs. 4 and 5 I have shown the fragmentary tab-ply B2 of a single thickness and in Figs. et, 6, 7 and S the tab-ply B of a double thickness. The latter being iirst cut in the form shown in Fig. 7, then folded along the dotted line in Fig. 7 into the shape shown in Figs. 4 and (5, the folded edge forms the diagonal edge and is placed adjacent to the folding space B", whereby such edge remains uncut and will not fray out in use or in the laundering process, thereby relieving the folding spaces from threads and frayed edges and maintaining a straight smooth edge along the folding space, which remains a certain and constant guide for folding the tabs alike on both ends of the collar.

I do not wish to be limited to any specified number of continuous or fragmentary plies, although I prefer to construct my improved collar, as I have shown, with four plies in the body part of the top, three in the folding space, and five in the tabs, because the trade demands a heavy or stiff body part, a stiffer tab, and a flexible folding part that will not break in folding. The diagonal lines of stitching C and C' also serve as visual guides to .mark the location of the diagonal folding space, thereby facilitating the operation of folding down the tabs of a laundered collar.

vThese lines of stitching inserted in onel only of the outer contin uous plies appear on one side only of the collar and are concealed by the folded tabs when the collar is in use.

It has been proposed heretofore to strengthen parts of a waterproof collar made of sheets of non-raveling material by cementing fragmentary plies to one side of the collar-body with the edges of the fragmentaryplies exposed to view, but such a construction would be impracticable and worthless if applied to apparel-collars made of textile fabrics, to f which class of collars only my invention applies, and I do not claim such a form of construction.

Itis an essential feature of my invention that the edges of the fragmentary plies are mentary middle ply on a diagonal line, subf stantially as described.

3. A standing collar having continuous outer plies, and inner fragmentary folded end-plies with the folded edge extending diagonally across the collar top, whereby the i folded edge marks a space for folding the tab and presents a smooth non-raveling edge to the folding space, substantially as described.

4. A standing collar having continuous outer plies, and inner fragmentary plies stitched along two or more edges thereof to both outer plies, and along a diagonal edge thereof to one outer ply only, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto ser iny hand this 20th day ofJ une, lSQ.

HOWARD S. KENNEDY.

litnesses GEO. A. MosHER, FRANK C. CURTIS.

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